Baby Photography Tips

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If you have ever tried to photograph a baby, then you know it has to be done at the right time and in the right place. Babies can be hard to take pictures of. However, there are some things that you can do to make the task easy and fun for both you and the baby.

Babies love to be the center of attention. They love to look at people looking at them. To a catch a baby in the right mood can create a headache if he is not ready. Allow the baby to play for awhile and have fun with toys that he is familiar with. Be sure to have the camera ready for when he begins to giggle and smile. Photographing a baby without them knowing about it will keep them from wanting to play with the camera.

Babies love bright colors. Once they find a color that captures their attention they will often gaze for awhile into the depths of the color. They also look good in bright colors and tones that match their complexion. Try dressing the baby in outfits that match their personality or the photo backgrounds that are being used. You may find that he smiles better or you may catch an expression that only he can make.

The angle of your camera is a very important part of taking a picture of a baby. Try a number of different angles to capture the full effect of the baby. Some poses you may try are taking the picture looking down at him, or getting on his level and even getting one looking up at him.

Try using different types of lenses like a telephoto lens. The telephoto lens allows you to get a close up without getting real close to them. Some babies will cry if a stranger gets to close. Patience is an important trait to have when taking pictures of a baby.

How to Take Glamour Photos Pt.2

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Photo by Darryl Smith

The Equipment Necessary for Glamour Shot Photography

Professional glamour photographers work with costly cameras, photography backgrounds, studio props and accessories. The fact remains that attractive glamour photos can be accomplished without the above named equipment. Actually, photographers who specialize in glamour shots generally like to shoot in locations outside of their studio using the smallest number of pieces of equipment. Interesting locations that are found readily outdoors such as the beach, mountains and other places are perfect backgrounds for glamour shots. The beginner photographer interested in glamour shots needs a high quality camera that has light settings that can be adjusted.

Glamour Shots Taken Vertically

Images of models are typically accomplished by holding the camera in the vertical position. Horizontally oriented pictures are associated with common pictures taken of families. Beginning photographers sometimes feel like turning the camera to a vertical position is awkward, professionals utilize the position frequently.

A photographer might enhance pictures by taking images in a vertical position.

Backgrounds are Important

Photographers who are versed in glamour photography need to be able to continue to focus on their model and not the background. Photographic backgrounds that are too complex take the eye away from the model . Backgrounds that are simple and basic are more appropriate for glamour shot photography.

Using Props

Despite the fact that props are not a fundamental part of photography, they can enhance a glamour shot. Props should to enhance a glamour shot and not make it distracting from the model. At times, large scale props can act as a frame or a background.

Lighting Glamour Shots

A glamour shot can be made or damaged by the use of lighting. One of the most powerful tools a photographer can use is the light setting on their camera. When combined with ideal focus on the model’s eyes and smile, you will have the perfect image.

 

How to Take Glamour Photos Pt.1

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Photo by Jonathan Ocab

The advancement of time has led to significant changes in the techniques used in glamour photography. Nowadays, glamour photographic images tend to be sexier and can include nudes. While women are still the common focus of glamour photography, men are rapidly becoming more prevalent.

Quite naturally, glamour photographs are at once, ambiguous and romantic but also include emphasis on the magnetism of the human body. One of the most popular kinds of glamour photographs is the kind where a model flirts playfully with the person looking at the image.

The most important factors that encourage an image to look professional are ideal lighting and the use of light diffusion through filters. The glamour model remains in focus, but you as the photographer have to be cautious when including any aspects other than the model, like the photo background. For glamour photography, exotic places are preferable to studios.

The Importance of Taking Glamour Photographs

There are several reasons why glamour photography is accumulating attention

around the world. Despite the fact that many models are able to have glamour shots taken in order to add them to their portfolios, there are many advertising professionals who rely on glamour shots for publicity.

Advice for Glamour Shot Posing

One of the most important aspects of glamour shots is the level of comfort a model has with the photographer. This is particularly true if the model is not accustomed to working in front of the camera and is somewhat self conscious. Most individuals feel insecure and ridiculous when posing for glamour photographs. This is why building a supportive environment is vital to successful glamour shots.

Background in a Photograph Part 2

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Sometimes no matter what you do, backgrounds continue to try and take center stage in some photos. In these cases you may want to consider using aperture to blur the background. By adjusting your lens, you can throw the background out of focus, bringing prominence to your subject. The background will be blurred, making it difficult to tell what’s happening. To do this, start with a wide aperture indicated by a small number. A wider equals a blurrier background. You should take several shots varying your aperture setting to help show the progression so you can decide what works best for the shot. Starting with a setting of f/20 and working your way down to a f/4 you’ll get a great idea of your options.

Using a long focal length is also a good way to blur backgrounds. When a longer tele-photo lens is used it creates a more narrow depth of field, which can cause blurring of the background because the subject takes up more space in the frame. The impact is not as high as adjusting the aperture, but it is experimenting with this technique can still yield some interesting results.

Another good tactic is to find open spaces to use as a photographic backdrop. An open field is a great backdrop if it is available because it stretches into the distance and will naturally blur, while a closer object like a wall or even a seamless backdrop can appear too bold in your photo.

Zooming in on a subject is another way to prevent a background from taking over. When your subject fills the vast majority of the frame, it becomes very difficult the take focus away. You can either get very close to your subject when taking the picture or use a zoom lens to get a high impact shot.

Some photographers handle background issues by bringing their own backdrop. These can be collapsible backdrops, cloth or muslin backdrops with some sort of backdrop support system. If you can take some shots indoors there may be more flexibility because you can control lighting a bit better and won’t have to contend with the wind.

Sometimes, catching issues with the background doesn’t happen until after the shot. When this happens you can edit or blur out parts of the background once you have a digital file to work with.

 

Background in a Photograph Part 1

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When you take a photograph, you are not only taking a picture of your subject, but also the background. While not everyone thinks of it, backgrounds play an import role in a photo and can either enhance it or hinder it depending on a number of factors.

When in a studio solid neutral colored seamless backdrops can easily be chosen to assure that the subject gets the proper attention, however many outdoor photos face some unique challenges. One of those is distracting focal points. You may have a shot line up perfectly when something, like a butterfly or a child gets in the way of the shot shifting the focus and making the photo look off balance.

Another element from backgrounds is the appearance of having objects protruding from their heads. All too often subjects are asked to stand next to a tree or a pole for a shot, and next thing the photographer knows the photo looks like these objects are growing out of the top of the subject’s head. While this can lend its way to a laugh or two, most of the time that is not what’s intended. Having the subject stand off to the side, or moving to a different position as the photographer can help minimize these instances. This type of distraction is very common, so double checking the preview is also a great idea to prevent the protruding object look in photos.

 

One issue that may be a little harder to predict is competing lines. Many types of backgrounds naturally have strong lines, such as fences or bushes. Sometimes when a subject’s clothing pattern also has strong lines the result can be a “busy” looking photo where it is difficult to decide exact where the focus belongs because the various lines are clashing in your photographic backdrop.

 

Distracting backgrounds can happen to anyone, some ways to avoid the include double checking the shutter release, checking the background for colors that don’t seem to belong in the photograph, and asking subjects to adjust their positioning, and shifting your own shooting angle are all ways to bring focus back where it belongs by taking distractions out of the frame or moving to the point where the ground or the sky act as natural photographic backdrops to bring out the best in your subject.

 

Indoor vs. Outdoor: Pet Photography

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Taking pictures of pets can be a challenge, even with the best lighting. At times, working outdoors would be perfect and then there are moments when indoor lighting is exactly what you need. There are several factors to recognize when deciding on the perfect location for photographing pets.

Problems with Distractions

It’s common for pets, particularly young ones, to get distracted easily. Trying to shoot pictures of an energetic puppy outside can be quite the endeavor. The best way to take photos of any young animal outside is to use an area that has some kind of containment. Unfortunately, places with a lot of exterior distractions or things that can scare animals are not advised, so avoid shooting in a dog park. One of the best places you can use to contain a distracted animal is in a fenced in yard.

Action Shots

Images of a pet playing or chasing can create some of the most memorable moments. These images capture the pet’s personality in a way that is beautiful. These images are also difficult to create in the confines of a studio. Instead, use the great outdoors with early morning sunlight or the last rays of sunset for lighting. Natural light outdoors provides the optimum lighting and gives the pet plenty of space to play during the shoot.

Holiday and Studio Images

If you’re taking shots of a pet dressed as Santa Claus or a puppy sitting in a patch of pumpkins, it’s probably a good idea to stick with an indoor studio. This gives you the opportunity to utilize different pieces of scenery, photographic backgrounds and special treats to get the pet’s attention. Shooting indoors also allows you more control over what the pet is doing.

A Combination of Indoor and Outdoor

For excellent pet images, it’s a great idea to work with the pet outside first and then take staged images inside. Doing this helps in two ways. First, you can get shots of the pet outdoors, using natural light. Second, the pet will have gotten much of it’s abundant energy out and will be more calm for the indoor shots. This also increases the likelihood that a pet will tolerate being in costume and sitting in various poses.

Time Constraints

It’s always important to be patient when photographing pets. Working outside, you may have to wait an hour or more to get a limited number of keeper images. When shooting pets, it’s necessary to let the pet set the tone for the session.

Studio Lighting in Photography — Part III

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Overexposing the background by at least two stops over the subject will get you a snow white, unlined background. This technique is used for super hi key shots when shooting portraits in a studio. To get this look you will want to meter your key light on the subject to f/8 and the background light to f/16. The subject should also be set far enough away from the photo background so it does not pick up any of the overexposing light and be able to maintain a proper exposure of your subject. It may be easier to achieve a super hi key portrait when using two background lights that are angled in on each side of the backdrop. This will ensure the light is more evenly distributed behind your subject.

Photo by: Slava Slavik Photography

Your fourth strobe, also known as a hair light, is used to separate the subject from the background. This light should be set to accentuate the subject’s hair and shoulders. Place the hair light behind the subject and use a snoot or grid to direct the light. Depending upon the desired look, the hair light can be placed high or low. Use of a hair light is not required in a studio, but should be used if the subject’s hair or shirt is close to the backdrop’s colors.

Your studio lighting set up does not have to be complex, but should be enough to show your subject in a flattering manner. Once you have mastered using the lights you have, you will be able to still shoot flattering portraits. Keys to using studio lighting properly include knowing how to control the light and understanding different light contract ratios. Keep practicing and experiment until you find out what light set up works best for your studio needs.

Studio Lighting in Photography — Part II

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When shooting in a studio, the illumination cast on your subject will remain constant, even when you reposition the key light at the same distance. You need to keep this in mind because it enables you to quickly move the light without having to re-take meter measurements. One way to do this correctly and avoid re-metering everything is to think of your subject as sitting in the center of a merry-go-round. You can reposition the key light anywhere on the outer radius of the wheel and your illumination measurement will remain the same.

You can also use fill lighting to fill in any contracting shadows and pockets on your subject, without moving your key light. Try keeping your fill light at approximately 15 feet directly in front of your subject and at a height of 10 to 11 feet and shoot from right underneath it. Use a soft box to diffuse your fill light and angle it directly on the subject’s face. After adjusting the power of the strobe, this light is metered to f/5.6 and gives a light proportion of 1:4

Your background light is the third strobe in your studio set up that can be mounted on a short stand and placed directly behind your subject. Angle the background light upward to illuminate the photo backdrop. This will eliminate any shadows from appearing on the backdrop. You can also have your subject sit at least six feet from the backdrop, which will help eliminate shadows.

Focus a parabolic reflector and a grid spot (or barn doors) onto the backdrop to create a vignette effect on a low key background. Use a soft box mounted high and angled downward as your background light to create a evenly lit backdrop. Meter your backdrop at f/5.6 or f/8 for an elegant, low to mid-key portrait.

The lighting you select will depend on your background and desired effect your want in the final photograph.

Studio Lighting in Photography Part I

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New portrait photographers can easily become confused and overwhelmed with the technical aspects involved in studio lighting. If you have been asking peers about the best studio lighting techniques, you have probably heard many different “best” options. Every professional develops his or her own preferences over time. You might still be trying to understand phrases like butterfly and short-lighting. The most important thing to remember is that at the end of the day, your job is to provide skills and techniques to produce a portrait that pleases your customer. In the beginning, the “best studio setup” is the one that makes your client look best.

Photo by: Girls by Design

One portrait lighting option is a basic three-light strobe method with an accent strobe to highlight the hair. The main light source (called the key) is positioned on a stand (or mount) and is moved up and down to manipulate the angles. Using a proper key light with a reflector board, umbrella, or white photographers’ backdrop, lets the photographer control shadows and creates a visual sense of three dimensions. This can be useful for making a portrait more interesting and appealing.

Photographers sometimes use a light box, or soft box, to get the same results.

Remember that controlling the light has a great deal to do with the distance between your light and your model or portrait subjects. Using a small light produces much harsher light. With a harsh light the portrait will have more shadows. Using a larger light and a reflective background or bounce tool will produce less shadowing. In simple terms, if you are using a 6” reflector you will get less contrast than with a 40” reflecting umbrella and so forth.

You can control your key light in several different ways. The first way is to meter the light without considering the parabolic reflector or umbrella. Change your equipment settings and positions to achieve f11. To adjust the power of your strobe, shorten or lengthen the difference between your model (positioned in front of the background) and the main light. Finding the perfect position takes practice, but it is well worth the effort as you gain experience in studio portraiture.

Still Life Photography Tips

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Good photographers are known for the things they are able to capture on film, but their photo opportunities do not always happen by chance. Many are cleverly orchestrated in the form of still life scenes. Setting up and photographing still life photos takes skill. Here’s some tips that will help you find your still life style.

First, you will need to pick out a background. Even if you ultimately go for more texture, you should start with a basic, seamless backdrop in a neutral color. If you decide you need something more, you can always add it in later.

Next, it’s time to set the scene. You’ll want to take all the time you need moving things around in order to get them just right. Instead of randomly placing objects against your photographic backdrop, think in triangles, and put objects higher at one end of your photographic background, gradually letting them taper off. Choosing objects of different sizes, shapes, colors, and textures will help you build a striking contrast in your still life set up. Trying different angles with the camera can also help you find just the shot you want.

With a still life photo, you will also want to being a sense of consistency, which is why a good support system is important. Using slower shutter speeds and a tripod for your camera will help you achieve this.

Lighting your still life is also simple. While using a single studio light may be the easiest, improvising with a regular lamp bulb can also have a great effect. One suggestion is to use a high powered energy saving bulb in a lamp without a shade, and an empty Pringles tube. Cutting holes in the shape of “doors” by cutting a T-shape and folding back the doors will help direct the light. The tube can be placed over the bulb to help direct the light. Reflectors will also help bounce light back into your shot. If necessary, these can be made of foil.
Experimenting with focus is also a good way to get the most out of your still life. Even if you ultimately pick a favorite, taking several shots will help you see exactly what you want and fulfill your vision in your still life photo.